Molten chocolate cakes

Butter four ramekins generously, dust them with flour and tap out the excess. Preheat the oven.

• Coat the corners carefully for easy unmoulding.

Look for this: A very thin white film covers the whole inside.

Melt the chocolate and butter over a bain-marie or in short microwave bursts, then stir until glossy.

• Remove it from the heat while a few pieces remain.

Look for this: The mixture is warm, smooth and shiny, never hot.

Whisk the eggs and sugar just to combine, add the chocolate, then fold in the sifted flour without overworking.

• Fill the ramekins three-quarters full.
• Bake immediately to preserve the molten centre.

Look for this: The batter falls from the spatula in a thick ribbon.

Bake until the edges are set but the centre still wobbles. Rest briefly before turning out.

• Run a thin knife around the edge and invert decisively.

Look for this: A circle about 3 cm wide remains soft in the centre.